Puto Tapul of Hamtic, Antique

  

PUTO TAPUL: A Taste of History

Food serves as an incredible gateway to discovering a new culture, offering insights into its geography, history and the people behind it. Being drawn to the people of a place, and the skill and craft used to survive their given landscape in long-established, natural ways. The craft behind the things that are grown, caught, made and preserved, and then the freedom of the makers to share the fruits of their skills, resourcefulness and deep knowledge.

Antique as a place of rich culinary heritage, with 18 municipalities and one which is the home to Gen. Leandro Fullons’ Shrine and the original Puto Ati or Puto Tapul is made, the town of Hamtic.

In Hamtic, a few things are inescapable:  its peace-loving people, its quiet environment coupled with a light meal taken in the middle of the morning and in the afternoon, “merienda” – the meal testament to the Filipinos’ love for food and for company at any time of the day. It can be as simple as a kakanin like “sinakol” or a” suman”  both wrapped in banana leaves, or pan de sal, often accompanied with coffee. A lot of local favorites have grown out of favor because of the overrated growing popularity of desserts blowing out in social media. Gone are the days of kakanin. But the town of Hamtic, preserved its original delicacy, “Puto Ati or Puto Tapul”

Puto [poo-toh] is a default term for native Philippine rice-based sweets, and its slightly sweet flavor and soft texture makes Antiqueños crave for it.  And if you’re a Filipino, you may not consider a feast as a feast without puto. Unsurprisingly, we share this unique side dish with Malay countries around Southeast Asia. Similar to its predecessor, the Filipino adaptation is made with ground rice, steamed to cook, and can be served alongside rich stews or on its own. There are so many variations of puto in the islands in the Philippines. One of the more popular kinds is putong puti made from galapong, or rice flour. But one of the people of Hamtic, named as Mrs. Ninfa Singabol, reimagined the plain puto white by using “tapul rice” to add a more original and a sweet aroma of the rice-based delicacy, now known as “Puto Ati”.  Mrs. Singabol is a local in Barangay 4, Hamtic, Antique and she started her puto making career since her mother started making puto. She proudly said that, “Atun gid tana dya nga mga taga Hamtic ang Puto nga Tapul” which means that, “this delicacy originated in Hamtic”. She only accepts orders 24/7 and wasn’t able to put up her own restaurant because of her age. She said that, making puto is not as easy as we all know since the process to make a perfect one requires patience while putting it on an extremely hot “kalan”. Each puto costs 9.00 but preferably, she accepts in bulk orders. As I know, It is a family-run business, whereas, Mrs. Singabol works with her husband together with children in making “Puto Ati”.  And probably one of the reasons why lots of people love its delicacy, since it is made with love by the members of its family. It shows family, and how a family should work together to keep its ties intact. It shows family and how one thing will always bind them together. It’s like the puto your grandmother bakes, that makes you and your cousins jump to the table and enjoy, that makes you and your cousin be “one” even in many differences. This rice-based delicacy in Hamtic shows not only of its fascinating black color but as well as how a family heritage should be kept alive and uplifted.

L-R (grated coconut, tapul rice, sugar)

Traditionally, the uncooked white and tapul rice, is soaked in water for several times then ground fine in a gilingan, or grinder, into galapong. The rice batter made of ground rice and water is steamed in native molds to make muffin-like rice cakes. Its rice flour, baking powder, and sugar are being mixed together in a bowl. Then add water and mix until well combined. Pour mixture into the native molder with a circled cut of a banana leaf, two thirds full. Place molder in a steamer over medium to high heat. Mrs. Singabol said that its steamer can already occupy 100 pieces of Puto Ati compared before. In the case of cooking, it should be assured that the water is boiling rapidly. Steam until cakes are firm and cooked, about 45minutes. Take the cakes out of the steamer and let them cool on the kitchen counter until they can be handled. Run a knife around the edges and use the knife to lift the cake out of the native molder. Mrs. Singabol added that this kind of delicacy should not be directly exposed to sunlight since it could cause hardness and spoilage. They are best the day they are made but can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container and reheated in a steamer or microwave oven.

Rice batter ready to cook

Food not only distinguishes and represents a culture, but can also reflect one’s personality and its people. “Puto Ati or Puto Tapul” is not just an ordinary rice-based delicacy that promotes the town of Hamtic but it has also the essence of a delicacy which a lot of people will love since its sweet flavor represents Antiqueños personality and its soft texture with its aroma that encourages people to visit this place for its rich culture and heritage. Probably Filipinos, considers rice-based delicacy as an integral part of its identity since we are considered sweet munchies for desserts made from rice, sweet rice or root vegetables that are slow cooked and usually made with coconut or coconut milk.
As time goes by, people will be able to look back to local delicacies compared to those desserts found on their social media account and I do bet that a lot of people still choose the latter part of todays’ very famous delicacies. Time will come that people would rather buy a sticky sweet rice for an hour until it gets chewy. For this, Puto Ati, is one of the delicacies that makes a family gather in a table for siesta and never fails to provide that much needed dose of inspiration in the middle of an otherwise uninspiring day. It can be a lifesaver, for its sweet rice is made of tapul that gives color for the delicacy, cooked in banana leaf that adds aroma to it, chewy, soft texture and takes hours to make – a real labor of love of a family. And definitely made by the locals that make each and every Hamtikanons proud of!

Lifting of a batch of cooked Puto Tapul. Photo by MRG Rodriguez

My utmost respect goes out to those who run the gauntlet of producing food traditionally today, that facilitates the natural practices of established food preservation, seeing the blossoming of a truly bio-culturally diverse landscape.

I would welcome a future in which everyone has the opportunity to experience joy through producing some of their own food. Through this, we can develop truly valuable skills and find ways to exist in harmony, becoming the landscape through its eating and connecting with the processes that nourish our very existence, while allowing us to truly belong.

 

References:

https://aithor.com/essay-examples/preserving-and-promoting-traditional-cuisine

https://sustainablefoodtrust.org/news-views/preserving-the-practices-of-traditional-foods/

https://www.nourishandtempt.com/flavours-of-the-philippines/

https://www.eliteplusmagazine.com/Article/950/Filipino_Cuisine__A_Rich_Tapestry_Of_Culinary_Traditions

https://doi.org/10.3390/soc13040095

https://theunknownartblog.wordpress.com/2016/12/08/puto-ati/ 

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Sapal (fermented rice)

Wrapping sapal in talus leaf

The Rise of Fermented Rice, SAPAL

Sapal is a fermented rice delicacy considered the cleanest food by locals. It boasts a sweet, sour, and liquor-like taste, with some describing it as an acquired taste due to its appearance, aroma, and texture reminiscent of regurgitated rice.

In the municipality of Sibalom in Antique, only two practitioners remain actively selling sapal during 'Tinda sa Sibalom kada Martes' or Sibalom market day. According to oral history, Tuesday (and Friday) is crucial as babaylans seek medicinal plants on these days.

The most crucial ingredient of sapal is the tapay, a fermentation starter. Tapay is extremely laborious to make, and only Nanay Lydia, 77 years old, from Brgy. Lacaron is the only one left who can make Tapay from scratch properly. 

Photo by Rei Hontanar, Facebook

The other maker of Sapal in Sibalom occasionally buys tapay from her, and even some of Sapal makers from Iloilo. The making of Tapay is an exact science that requires great effort and accuracy. One must use the same number of slices of ginger, pieces of whole peppercorn, and katumbal. When slicing the ginger or luya, it should be uniformed in shape and length. These spices are mixed with water and a special type of rice called “laon nga bugas” or old rice from the last harvest. They will be soaked in an earthenware called lahang covered with banana leaves for a few hours. Afterwards, the mixture is drained and pounded using lusong and hal-o (wooden mortar and pestle). Nanay Lydia noted that before pounding the mixture, the lusong and hal-o should be cleaned by brushing it with lemongrass or guava leaves. In addition, it should also be washed with the water extracted from the mixture and not tap water. Nanay Lydia also said that manual pounding is the only way because using gilingan is not allowed due to contaminants. Once the mixture becomes floury, it is molded and placed in a basket with hay called bakad. It will be there for around three nights. The bakag should also be kept clean and hung to prevent contaminants, such as insects. The tapay is then transferred to kararaw, another type of basket, and left under the sun for drying.

Photo by Rei Hontanar, Facebook

The tedious process still continues in making the actual sapal. The first step is cooking the rice in a kaldero. It is not allowed to use a kaldero that is used for cooking other dishes. The rice needs to be cooled, and then pounded tapay is added with white sugar. The rice will be now wrapped in a leaf called Talus (Homalomena sp.), which is gathered from the wild in Sibalom. The wrapped rice will be placed in a batya covered with banana leaves.

There are more protocols followed by the practitioners. First, it should be done alone in a secluded room with a closed door. Second, it is not allowed to talk because saliva can cause contamination; third, hair should be covered because a single strand of hair can also cause contamination. There are also old beliefs that it is not allowed to make sapal during the menstruation period or if someone went from a wake or funeral.

Nanay Lydia only makes enough pieces of sapal to sell it all within the day. She said that many elders look for sapal. Locals typically eat it as it is or paired with cold plain rice. Additionally, babaylans from Tobias Fornier, who incorporate it into rituals and offerings, also purchase from her. An example of a ritual where babaylans need sapal is Padaga ka Balay, a tradition performed in a newly constructed house or when the house is also home to supernatural elements. It is performed for blessings and protection or to ward off bad spirits. Some of the required offerings during the ritual include 7 pieces of puso, 7 ibos, 7 alupi, 7 cooked dishes, and 7 sapal.

In folk medicine, sapal is believed to have medicinal properties. The delicacy is good for children for intestinal parasites. Sapal also produces liquid that can be spread on the skin, which can help in treating arthritis.

The tradition of making sapal has been passed from one generation to another. However, due to its tedious process, newer generations are not interested in the craft.

Photo by Marie Joy Rosal, Facebook

Making Sapal is indeed very tiresome and requires a lot of time. It may be the reason as to why not many people chose to make it. If no one would make it, what will happen to Sapal? Many of the things that are long existing are slowly being forgotten, consciously or unconsciously. Those things that the new generation continue to ignore well in fact, these are the things that they should know because these defines what they are for it represents tradition in their specific place. For example is this Sapal, only two people knows how to make this, what happens then if they stop making it because of some reasons? It’s good if their children will continue this work but what if they’ll not? The production of Sapal already depreciated over a short period of time and so are the people buying it.  As you can see, our country is quickly changing and so is the people in it. Things outside our country influences those that are inside. Some may be good influences but some aren’t. Sapal may be a food that is not nose-friendly at all but it’s worth a try. Try eating it, or you may even try making it in order for this food to not be forgotten or, in a worst case, be gone forever.

 

References:

https://theunknownartblog.wordpress.com/2016/12/05/sapal-a-smelly-yet-yummy-kakanin-found-only-in-sibalom/

https://web.facebook.com/LocalFoodHeritagePH/posts/pfbid022pAXPm6potyW6bKmxjjpgWmEmyrVTQMYH6GPLgZ9RHp2PSJeja1pKNCv1nQ7nA5Wl

 

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Kalamay Hati, Antique version

 Kalamay Hati: Sticky goodness of Antique

"Food is pamana. It is our rich cultural heritage.  Food sustains us, identifies us, and connects us as a nation.  Everytime I miss Antique, only a bite of bukayo and butung-butung and I am transported back to the province and connected to the generations of Antiqueños who have created recipes, cooked native ingredients, and shared meals in their homes, in banquets and fiestas.
-Loren Legarda, 2024 (during the opening ceremony of Hapag ng Pamana in Antique)

Antique is a province in Western Visayas that is a birthplace to the native Iraynun-Bukidnon, speakers of vernacular Kinaray-a language, the tribe whom also known who crafted the only rice terraces in the Visayas region which played a big part in the culinary heritage of this place. That's why throughout history, food and culture are inseparable that have been influencing our homes, our communities and our nation. Among the many culinary treasure of Antique, one stands out for its sweet, sticky goodness: Kalamay Hati.

Kalamay Hati, a traditional Filipino delicacy, is a sticky rice cake made with brown sugar, coconut milk, and often flavored with ube (purple yam) or langka (jackfruit).

The creation of this delicacy involves two steps. First, pilit (glutinous rice) is added to coconut milk, and the mixture is ground until it becomes a smooth paste. Second, brown sugar is added to a second batch of coconut milk, which is then boiled to make a thick, sweet syrup called latik. The latik is then poured into the pilit-coconut milk mixture. The mixture is then stirred for several hours. The concoction has to be stirred non-stop to avoid burning the calamay and to retain its viscous consistency. But as the calamay is cooked, it becomes extremely thick, which makes stirring the paste increasingly difficult.

Traditionally, bagols, or coconut shells, are used to package the finished calamay. The calamay is then air cooled before the containers are sealed, and the products are delivered to the stores and market.

Kalamay Hati in Antique is more than just a delicious treat; it's a symbol of the community's culinary heritage. It's a dish that brings families and friends together, shared during celebrations and special occasions. The process of making kalamay hati is often a shared experience, with generations passing down the traditional techniques and recipes.

The kalamay hati of Antique is a testament to the ingenuity and passion of its people. It's a dish that captures the essence of the region's agricultural bounty, culinary traditions, and community spirit. Whether enjoyed as a sweet snack or a cherished part of a special meal, kalamay hati is a culinary treasure that continues to delight generations.

If you find yourself in Antique, be sure to savor the sweet symphony of flavors that is kalamay hati. It's a taste of tradition, a celebration of heritage, and a reminder of the enduring love for food that defines the heart of Antique.

https://adrenalineromance.com/2017/05/18/calamay-kalami-the-sweet-heart-of-jagna-bohol/

https://lorenlegarda.com.ph/opening-ceremony-of-hapag-ng-pamana-in-antique/

https://mujeegonzales.wordpress.com/2019/06/28/antique-travel-guide/