Sapal (fermented rice)

Wrapping sapal in talus leaf

The Rise of Fermented Rice, SAPAL

Sapal is a fermented rice delicacy considered the cleanest food by locals. It boasts a sweet, sour, and liquor-like taste, with some describing it as an acquired taste due to its appearance, aroma, and texture reminiscent of regurgitated rice.

In the municipality of Sibalom in Antique, only two practitioners remain actively selling sapal during 'Tinda sa Sibalom kada Martes' or Sibalom market day. According to oral history, Tuesday (and Friday) is crucial as babaylans seek medicinal plants on these days.

The most crucial ingredient of sapal is the tapay, a fermentation starter. Tapay is extremely laborious to make, and only Nanay Lydia, 77 years old, from Brgy. Lacaron is the only one left who can make Tapay from scratch properly. 

Photo by Rei Hontanar, Facebook

The other maker of Sapal in Sibalom occasionally buys tapay from her, and even some of Sapal makers from Iloilo. The making of Tapay is an exact science that requires great effort and accuracy. One must use the same number of slices of ginger, pieces of whole peppercorn, and katumbal. When slicing the ginger or luya, it should be uniformed in shape and length. These spices are mixed with water and a special type of rice called “laon nga bugas” or old rice from the last harvest. They will be soaked in an earthenware called lahang covered with banana leaves for a few hours. Afterwards, the mixture is drained and pounded using lusong and hal-o (wooden mortar and pestle). Nanay Lydia noted that before pounding the mixture, the lusong and hal-o should be cleaned by brushing it with lemongrass or guava leaves. In addition, it should also be washed with the water extracted from the mixture and not tap water. Nanay Lydia also said that manual pounding is the only way because using gilingan is not allowed due to contaminants. Once the mixture becomes floury, it is molded and placed in a basket with hay called bakad. It will be there for around three nights. The bakag should also be kept clean and hung to prevent contaminants, such as insects. The tapay is then transferred to kararaw, another type of basket, and left under the sun for drying.

Photo by Rei Hontanar, Facebook

The tedious process still continues in making the actual sapal. The first step is cooking the rice in a kaldero. It is not allowed to use a kaldero that is used for cooking other dishes. The rice needs to be cooled, and then pounded tapay is added with white sugar. The rice will be now wrapped in a leaf called Talus (Homalomena sp.), which is gathered from the wild in Sibalom. The wrapped rice will be placed in a batya covered with banana leaves.

There are more protocols followed by the practitioners. First, it should be done alone in a secluded room with a closed door. Second, it is not allowed to talk because saliva can cause contamination; third, hair should be covered because a single strand of hair can also cause contamination. There are also old beliefs that it is not allowed to make sapal during the menstruation period or if someone went from a wake or funeral.

Nanay Lydia only makes enough pieces of sapal to sell it all within the day. She said that many elders look for sapal. Locals typically eat it as it is or paired with cold plain rice. Additionally, babaylans from Tobias Fornier, who incorporate it into rituals and offerings, also purchase from her. An example of a ritual where babaylans need sapal is Padaga ka Balay, a tradition performed in a newly constructed house or when the house is also home to supernatural elements. It is performed for blessings and protection or to ward off bad spirits. Some of the required offerings during the ritual include 7 pieces of puso, 7 ibos, 7 alupi, 7 cooked dishes, and 7 sapal.

In folk medicine, sapal is believed to have medicinal properties. The delicacy is good for children for intestinal parasites. Sapal also produces liquid that can be spread on the skin, which can help in treating arthritis.

The tradition of making sapal has been passed from one generation to another. However, due to its tedious process, newer generations are not interested in the craft.

Photo by Marie Joy Rosal, Facebook

Making Sapal is indeed very tiresome and requires a lot of time. It may be the reason as to why not many people chose to make it. If no one would make it, what will happen to Sapal? Many of the things that are long existing are slowly being forgotten, consciously or unconsciously. Those things that the new generation continue to ignore well in fact, these are the things that they should know because these defines what they are for it represents tradition in their specific place. For example is this Sapal, only two people knows how to make this, what happens then if they stop making it because of some reasons? It’s good if their children will continue this work but what if they’ll not? The production of Sapal already depreciated over a short period of time and so are the people buying it.  As you can see, our country is quickly changing and so is the people in it. Things outside our country influences those that are inside. Some may be good influences but some aren’t. Sapal may be a food that is not nose-friendly at all but it’s worth a try. Try eating it, or you may even try making it in order for this food to not be forgotten or, in a worst case, be gone forever.

 

References:

https://theunknownartblog.wordpress.com/2016/12/05/sapal-a-smelly-yet-yummy-kakanin-found-only-in-sibalom/

https://web.facebook.com/LocalFoodHeritagePH/posts/pfbid022pAXPm6potyW6bKmxjjpgWmEmyrVTQMYH6GPLgZ9RHp2PSJeja1pKNCv1nQ7nA5Wl

 

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